Baselworld 2016: SENATOR EXCELLENCE - The premiere of a simply innovative movement

Baselworld 2016: SENATOR EXCELLENCE - The premiere of a simply innovative movement

In developing the new manufactory Calibre 36 the designers and watchmakers at Glashütte Original have made time for what is essential: the basic form, as substantial as it is innovative, of a new generation of timepieces.

The automatic movement with classic hour, minute and seconds functions has been thought through with care; exceptionally user-friendly, it meets, at the same time, the highest standards of the watchmaker's art. Fittingly, it celebrates its debut beneath a classic face of modern time measurement in Glashütte: the Senator Excellence.

The curtain rises on the Calibre 36

The German watchmaker's designers were guided, as they created the new core movement, by four principles: extreme stability - in rate as well as overall construction; maximum precision; extended running time; and an aesthetic of timeless beauty. Accordingly, a calibre has emerged that represents the quintessence of the manufactory's broad range of craft skills and is destined to serve as a solid foundation for future challenges and flights of the watchmaker's art.

Stability as a principle

Reliability and robust construction have always been valued highly in the making of watches at Glashütte Original. These timepieces are made to accompany their owners reliably as they go about their busy lives, and are duty-bound to uphold the reputation of their "Made in Germany" seal of origin. As a result, a great deal of attention was paid during the development of the compact automatic movement to assure a sustained high performance: optimal design enabled a reduction in the number of components and the elimination of components that were potentially vulnerable to wear and tear, such as the winding system's traditional detent click, which the bi-directional-wind reduction gear renders superfluous. Contributing to substantial stability as well is an innovative bayonet mount used to settle the movement in the case – similar to a bayonet mount for a camera lens. This renders the construction as a whole extremely shock-resistant and, at the same time, easy to assemble and service.

Silicon technology for the greatest precision

The highly precise timepieces in the Saxon tradition of watchmaking have defined the standard against which Glashütte Original measures itself. Today, as in the past, this high ideal fuels the spirit of invention: with its new calibre the brand presents, for the first time, a movement fitted with an innovative silicon balance spring. Not only does its high-tech material render the ultra-thin spring immune to changes in temperature and to magnetic fields, but its oscillation is extremely isochronous. Its advantages are ideally matched to the mechanics of the movement: a bi-directional winding mechanism ensures that the watch remains within the optimal charge range; a guarantee for excellent rate results. In addition, a regulator-free oscillation system makes it possible to adjust the rate using weighted screws directly on the balance rim. The movement is tested and adjusted by Glashütte Original in six different positions – one more than a chronometer certification test would normally require.

100 hours of autonomy

In watchmaking, time necessarily plays a big role – even when the objective is to assure the longest possible running time. The new calibre features, for the first time at Glashütte Original, a power reserve of up to 100 hours, at a frequency of 4 Hertz (28,800 alternations per hour). An authentic rarity. The wearer can thus leave the fully wound watch at rest for up to four days without having to re-set the time. This unusually high degree of autonomy is achieved with the use of only one spring barrel, developed specifically for this purpose: increased diameter and a smaller barrel arbour made it possible to lengthen the mainspring and sharply increase the number of winding turns. The result offers maximum comfort for the wearer and is an authentic example of the modern art of watchmaking.

Decorations and finishings à la Glashütte

As a true child of Glashütte watchmakers, the new movement is proud to present its inner beauty to the outside world. Thus through the sapphire crystal case back one is immediately able to recognise typical Glashütte decorations and construction features: the characteristic three-quarter plate and the skeletonised rotor, the refined stripe finish, perlage, blued screws and finely wrought decorations on the wheels and rotor track. A further subtle highlight is the implementation of the elegant manual winding chain, which was consciously presented in full view and reveals the fascinating work performed as the watch is wound by hand.

A classic with a new face: the Senator Excellence

The Calibre 36 celebrates its debut, as is only fitting, in a classic of the watchmaker's collection. With its minimalist design, the Senator Excellence mirrors the pure essence of Glashütte Original. A slim bezel and the domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both sides, offer superb views and lend this timepiece its simple elegance. The finely ribbed crown bears the brand's representative double-Glashütte logo, carried by all mechanical watches in the collection. The polished and satin-brushed surfaces of the case reflect the light and are harmoniously attuned to each other.

The hour, minute and seconds hands follow their paths above a gently understated dial that heightens the focus on what is essential: the newly designed dial now presents the typical Roman numerals only at hours 6 and 12, thus making room for the distinctive indexes. Thus the Senator Excellence presents an open, elegant and contemporary face.

Three versions are available: two present a dial with a light, silver-grained lacquer surface along with laser-cut, galvanised black indexes and a corresponding railroad minute ring. The stainless steel model presents finely drawn minute numerals inspired by those of historic pocket watches, laser-cut and galvanised in black, while the red gold version offers these numerals printed in luminous red. Both timepieces are rendered easily legible by long, slim poire hands and a filigreed seconds hand; black Louisiana alligator leather straps with pin buckles assure elegant comfort for the wearer.

A third model evokes the famous observation watches that are representative of the art of watchmaking in Glashütte. It presents a stainless steel case with black dial and finely curved Arabic numerals. Generous use of Super-LumiNova assures optimal legibility even under less than optimal lighting: on the slim white gold hands, the arrow-tip of the seconds hand, and on the hour indexes, the luminous coating guarantees clarity in the dark. A white railroad minute ring and 5-minute markers create additional contrasts and are enhanced by a black calfskin strap with pin buckle – for pure watchmaking beauty.