It is not a limited anniversary edition, but a subtly reworked and refined version that logically complements the 21 previous models that have been presented since 1996, not to mention the eclectic gold and platinum variations with different dial designs. The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 is available in 18K white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial and in 18K rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial.

Both models of the Ref. 5396 look familiar yet at the same time appear to be totally new. Familiar because of the style elements that have been appreciated for years, and new because these elements have never before been combined in this way. The first element is the shape of the case with its inimitable Calatrava personality, another beautifully refined facet that dates back to the Ref. 96 in 1932, when the Bauhaus "form follows function" principle was memorialized in horology. Its success was so persuasive that the Calatrava today is deemed the archetype of all classic round watches. In the new Ref. 5396 Annual Calendar, the round of the case also merges gracefully with the strap lugs, and a smoothly polished bezel frames the dial. The sapphire-crystal glass is prominently cambered, endowing the watch with volume and a highly modern look.

A familiar new face

The glass showcases a dial that perfectly reflects the timelessness of this watch: It features familiar elements that have been subtly refined and recombined. One of them is the in-line double aperture in the upper half of the dial that displays the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. The date display of the Ref. 5396 is positioned in a large aperture at 6 o'clock. Together with the double aperture, it frames the 24-hour subsidiary dial with the moon-phase display in the lower half of the dial to assure a visually balanced configuration. This layout is reminiscent of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars from the 1940s and 1950s, which regularly fetch top prices at auction. The main difference: On the face of the Ref. 5396, the position of the analog date scale in the historic models is now occupied by the 24-hour dial, which doubles as a day/night indication.

The time is indicated in the crisply legible classic fashion: A peripheral circle of small gold minute markers frames the sculpted applied Breguet numerals in 18K gold. They harmonize gracefully with the Dauphine-style hour and minute hands as well as with the long, slender sweep seconds hand. As sleek and clear-cut the Dauphine hands may appear, they rank among the more challenging styles as regards craftsmanship. Their sharp center ridges and the polished bevel flanks that taper into the tips will forgive neither the slightest tolerance deviations in production nor a misstep when the hands are fixed to the arbors.

Mechanical horology in artisanal perfection

The heart of the new Ref. 5396 Annual Calendar is a self-winding mechanical movement that correctly displays the calendar information for an entire year. The date and month indications only need to be manually corrected once a year at the transition from February to March, but this task takes only seconds, thanks to the small correctors in the caseband. Once this is done, the calendar is calibrated for another year. The moon-phase display requires even less attention. Thanks to its precise reduction wheel train, an adjustment by one day is needed only once every 122 years. This deviation is irrelevant in the course of a generation. But it does suggest how meticulously the movement was crafted. Much of the finesse of the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H is visible through the sapphire-crystal case back: rhodiumed bridges with Geneva striping, round-chamfered edges and gold-filled engravings, a large rotor in 18K yellow gold with an engraved Calatrava cross, Geneva circular graining, perlage in the center, beveled flanks with Geneva snailing (colimaçons), and gleaming red bearing jewels. Rate accuracy is assured by Patek Philippe's proprietary Gyromax® balance with the patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®, a revolutionary derivative of silicon. As specified by the Patek Philippe Seal, rate deviations must range within -3 and +2 seconds per day. This exceeds all conventional chronometer benchmarks for mechanical watches.

One watch, two distinctively different versions

The two models of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5396 Annual Calendar differ not only in terms of case and dial colors, they also project two distinctly different personalities. With its silvery white opaline dial and color-coordinated numerals, markers, and hands, the 18K rose gold version is the epitome of classic elegance. It is worn on a shiny chocolate brown alligator strap provided with an 18K rose-gold Calatrava fold-over clasp. The 5N nuance of rose gold was chosen because its somewhat deeper red hue echoes a traditional aura. The 18K white-gold version has a very modern and technical look with a dark galvanic gray dial featuring a sunburst finish that produces a mystical luster. Its appeal is emphasized with applied Breguet numerals, markers and hands in 18K white gold. The matt black alligator strap with large square scales is secured with a Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K white gold. Gentlemen: Make your choice.